Camino San Salvador

Walking the Camino San Salvador – Just After Travel Lock Down Lifted 

My love of taking an my annual ‘Camino Pilgrimage’ in Spain had been under threat, due to the pandemic and resultant travel restrictions. I almost got to the at the point of cancelling, but suddenly the travel restrictions were lifted, and a window of opportunity presented itself. I deliberated for ages, asked friends for advice, spoke at length with my friend in Spain who was also planning to do it, and changed my mind on a daily basis. But in the end, my love of walking the Camino Ways prevailed and I just decided to go for it.

I hope that you enjoy it. 

Day 1 - Camino San Salvador Day One - Travel from UK to Leon (Spain) 

When you think you can't you probably can! I really thought that I would not beable to complete my annual Camino trip this year. Covid19 had stopped everything in it's tracks for all of us. 

I kept in my mind the idea that, I was somehow going to be able to do it. 

Keep in mind what you desire and the how will look after itself!

Amazingly just in time the travel restrictions were lifted, and the Camino Salvador was on.

I was scared I must admit, it felt very strange to be even thinking about leaving the UK. 

Was I mad or did I just need to have the courage to take that step and go? Probably a bit of both! So I did! 

And do you know what ... it was ok. The flight went smoothly, I picked up a fast train from Madrid to Leon and before I knew it I was having a cold beer with fellow Pilgrim Don in the sunshine overlooking the beautiful Leon Cathedral.

As the Camino Salvador is a remote route and likely that not too many pilgrims would be doing it a this time, at least Don and I could look out for each other. (I met Don on last year’s Camino Primitivo, when we kept bumping into each other) We did get lost together once or twice too! (if you have read previous blogs ... Don is the funny Irish guy I wrote about)

After supper, it was early to be bed, in preparation for a 5am wake-up call! Getting started before sunrise being the best option. 

Doing this just reminded me just how much I love adventures, and how pushing myself out of my comfort zone was really worth the effort. 

Now I just need to trust that the Camino will look after us, and we won’t get lost.

Day 2 - Camino San Salvador Leon to La Robla – Challenging 31km (supposed to be 27km) 

Being the only mad Pilgrims to tackle this challenge at this time, there was no one to follow out of the Albergue to the first Camino sign of the day. So, Don and I muddled along in the dark (6am start to beat the heat!) Luckily Don speaks Spanish and I have google maps, so between us we found the right sign to Oviedo. The Camino Frances also goes through Leon , so we needed to get it right.

As the Salvador route is not so well travelled there is no guidebook as such, just a few random e-books that were too big to print out. So, working from a few scanty notes we got on our way. 

As Don and I walk at different paces, and it is nice to experience the Camino walking alone, we decided to meet up at certain points and check with each other especially if we couldn't see a sign or got completely lost.

The Camino always looks after you! (When you trust that it will) 

Early in we managed to somehow be walking past one of the few open bars on route at exactly the time we wanted morning coffee, the only supermarket on route opened just as we arrived and a Spanish guy turned up out of nowhere to inform me Don was lost ( the one time he over took me whilst I was writing yesterday’s blog on a bench on hill) Anyway I managed to get Don back on track only to find he got lost again and as I sit in a bar now writing this in La Robla, Don is still missing! (He is close coming by taxi, don't worry)

The Camino signs here are quite good, but it is still easy to miss one. As I was walking ahead, I was using What’s App to send Don pictures of the route. And leaving him additional signs.

Travel light enjoying the peace

It was a beautiful route, mountainous for the majority, {Cantabrian Mountain Range} coupled with that wonderful air of peace that being on the Camino way, close to nature all day gives you. 

I was glad I was travelling light, as the old me would just have been too weak to lug the kind of weight I used to try and carry. ( the one luxury item, my travel kettle has still been sneaked in) 

'Have the courage to let go of that which no longer serves you', the message I was given on my first ever Camino has been worked on for several years. 

It was a very long day, 31km, started out at 6am and finished at 6pm. And it was seriously hot (10am onwards) And my brain is still capable of writing this blog! (only just!) 

Determination wins through 

It is amazing what you can do when you decide you are going to. But my advice is if something like this, is on your list of things you want to do, do it soon! 

Best make the most of your fitness and health when you have it. Don't wait to do these things. Just do it! (the way I think anyway) I had a nerve impingement injury last September and it has taken ages to heal. I had been worried that I might not be able to do this long-distance hiking anymore.

I am lucky, it seems ok and I have managed to just keep going. Sometimes it is necessary to just do that, keep putting one foot in front of the other. You may be amazed what happens when you do.

Don was talking about his levels of determination today! He is 65 years old and told me today that the only training he did was running 3 times a week with his dog! I did not know that there was a chance that I might have to carry Don as well as my pack. 

Anyway, it is time to get a shower and for well-earned supper, before a very early night. 

Day 3 ...Camino San Salvador La Robla to Poladura de Tercia 28km 

Plugging into something great

The day started off with a fairly flatish path to Pola de Gordon pretty much following the river. It was so peaceful. Almost as soon as my feet hit the Camino path wherever it is, I get the same feeling. A kind of simple happiness! I think that when you spend time close to nature, just putting one foot in front of the other, with no other plan than to enjoy the journey, you really do plug into something great! 

Stopping for coffee at a little church Don reminded me of an old song ...'Child of the Universe' and we chatted a bit about the benevolence of nature and how it keeps on giving! We were both very grateful to be here!

Appreciating the little things

I love all the little things that you experience doing something like this, the way you can really feel a place, get sense of its history just by stepping in all the footsteps of those who have passed this way before.

And so, I kept on walking... deciding I   would only go a little way ahead of Don before stopping and waiting, especially when the route got a little more challenging. 

Tough and Wonderful 

We filled up our water bottles in Buzia and had some lunch before setting off up the mountain to Poladura De La Tercia. It was tough and wonderful both at the same time. 

Towards the end the heavens opened, and it rained! An early cold shower! 

Nearly went off piste to the wrong town ... but trusted that the Camino signs would show the way. (And they did... trust is important!)

It was all ok and a nice glass wine and a warm bed awaited at the Posda El Embrujo! (Witches residence!) I hope it doesn’t spook me out!

Day 4 - Camino San Salvador - Poladura to Pajares 18km (Over the Mountains) 

After a slightly more relaxed departure from the guest house in Poladura, (Waited for breakfast at 8am, as there were no services on route) 

Today was a full day crossing a mountain pass, the most remote part of this Camino. (although I would say that most of it has been pretty remote so far!) 

'To experience beauty, you need to put yourself in the way of it' 

And today was certainly that. The route reached 1574m at its highest point, the views far reaching. 

The mix of mountain and meadow was beautiful. A gentle breeze took the edge off the hot sun.

Finding yourself - being yourself

I loved it! Sometimes in life you find yourself somewhere doing something and you realise that you really are being yourself. 

From my experience Camino walking (or long distance hiking of any kind) creates an energy, a space, a sense of inner calm that is similar to a kind of meditation. 

This simple daily movement does something that seems to change you inside. Connected with the earth and surrounded by nature, maybe you just become who you really are. A simple being, uncluttered and free.

Each trip I do always changes me for the better. I get reinspired. The proposal for my next Book 'Walk and Grow Rich' - is going to get written when I get back! 

The day continued over the mountains, which are known as ' Cuchillos' Knife Mountains (they cut through two vertical rock formations apparently) plugged into that magical energy made the 18km highly enjoyable. 

A cold beer in a bar (with Don and some locals) at PTO Parajes ( A ski resort in winter ) made the last 5km (the endless winding road) into the village flow even better!

Day 5 - Pajares to Pola de Lena (23 km in the guide but more like 28/30km) 

Got going early, it was foggy. I hoped that it would not be difficult to see the way! 

Having read a little about what to expect, I knew that there was going to be a lot of ups and a lot of steep downs, and maybe some fairly narrow paths. (Understatement!)

This is the first Camino I have hiked that has not had a detailed guidebook or app to follow. The Camino passport gives a route plan, but the distances always seemed longer when mapped on Strava.

There is a lot of trust involved. A lot!

1.The Camino will look after all who travel her path

2.The arrows know what they are doing

3. You can relax and just enjoy the view!

The views were AMAZING... coupled with slightly dangerously narrow paths. 

(No gain without pain came to mind!)

I had to take several deep breaths and just take it all in, as opposed to worry about what was to come or not. (a pretty good life and business lesson too!)

Another lesson...

My phone died halfway along the route, it did remind me to make sure I always had 2 forms of communication with me.

Somethings are vital to carry in your little ruck sack.

My mission to travel light, meant that I had left my iPad mini at home. (Silly me, as really that would have been a weight well worth carrying for the peace of mind it would have given me ... especially as I was checking up on Don, to make sure he was ok.

(Don says thank you mummy! We laughed a lot at that comment, and it became an ongoing theme. Don is Irish and has a great sense of humour. 

Oh well... I will remember this potential danger, next time I go remote hiking. (take a couple of fast chargers not one pathetically weak one!) 

Connecting with the energy of a place

This part of Salvador Camino is particularly stunning, a mix of mountain, forest and wild meadows. I crossed plenty of little streams, climbed up hills, scrambled down a number of very steep inclines. It sounds hard ... it was but like I have said, the energy you get from doing it, seems to propel you forward.

Moving is good...

I was worried before I came out to do this, that my nerve impingement ( and remaining very slight foot drop,) was not quite at 100% ... but I have to say that despite the long and challenging days it has been fine. In fact, I have more residual pain sitting at my desk. 

My lesson here is sometimes (unless you have been told not to) when you are feeling stiffness and pain, just move anyway. It will get easier the more you do.

So, this epic day ended with supper on the terrace of nice rural guest house just the right side of Pola de Lena. (Perfect for the Camino signs for the last day!)

Buenas Noches!

Day 6 – Pola de Lena to Mieres (with Train to Oviedo from Mieres) 

After 5 intense days, a slightly more relaxed recovery hike was needed to end this trip on a good and safe note. So, a decision was made to have a later start after breakfast on the terrace of the Hotel Dona Gaudiosa (nice simple country guest house) and walk 15km to Mieres and catch a train to Oviedo. I know 15 km is not exactly a short distance but compared to what went before, believe me it was. 

Be kind to yourself

After an intense period of hard work, pushing yourself, or doing something intensely, it can be good to give yourself permission to take it easier. That is what I decided was best for me today. 

This part of the route was flat and felt easy. Partly quiet road walking between some small villages, and partly along the riverside from Ujo to Mieres. Nice coffee stop in Ujo. 

The train station was practically on the Camino Route so, it was almost rude not to take the train avoiding the road walking into the city.

Oviedo is a lovely city to explore and with more energy and an earlier arrival this was possible. The only strange thing was seeing every single person wearing a mask. (It is illegal not to) 

Plans were made to catch the bus in the morning back to Madrid to catch my flight back to the UK. Amazingly the plane got in just before travel lock down and the quarantine rules came back into force. 

The Camino worked its magic for me again and everything went like clockwork.

Gratitude 

I am very grateful for the window of inspiration, I gained from taking this trip. I walked one of the Camino Routes less travelled, at a time when virtually no one else was there. (except Don and some locals) 

I always feel like the Camino (Pilgrimages) always gives me ( and all those that walk that way) something special, hard to define in words sometimes, but I do feel changed by the experience. 

It is like being touched by the universal energy force of nature and spiritual history. It feels like I get a little bit of magic from the experience that puts a new spring in my step and refreshes my soul.

This Camino was smaller (shorter) than previous years, but powerful in its own way.

 It came at a time when doing this was a really BIG thing and I could experience it. 

Thank you, Camino San Salvador. 

I loved spending time walking your way.

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